Fixed Gear Tips and techniques

Fixed Gear

Fixed Gear Tips and techniques

Riding a fixed gear can be sane, safe and fun. but it is quite unlike any experience you've ever had before.

 

Here's some tips to a safe ride, and how to go about it...

 

Getting started: First find your dominant foot. Most riders even on geared or regular bikes, have a foot they start with on the ground and one they have on the pedals first. It is usually a habit. For me, I start with my right foot in the pedal and the left on the ground. Perhaps, coincidentally, I am also left handed.

 

When riding a fixed gear this is particularly important, because as you come to a stop you will have to unclip or remove that foot fromt he pedal and put it down quickly. Practice this on a quite street or in a vacant parking lot.

When you take off from a stop try to "click in" with your ground foot right away, within a second or so. It will take some practice but you will get it. You can't really get the foot on the pedal as easy once you start really moving so do it first quickly.

 

Turning: On a bicycle you really don't turn the handlebars much whilst turning unless going reaaaallly slow, so this shouldn't be an issue, but it is with fixed gears; you should be careful on some bikes with tighter frame angles that the tips of your feet don't strike the front wheel when turning slightly. But the biggest concern is pedal strike. Since you will be pedaling going into a turn you may not be able to lean into it as much as on a "regular" bike. Shorter cranks can help; most modern road bikes have 175 cranks, meaning they are 175mm long. A lot of older ones have 170mm or even 165mm cranks. These are a lot better for turning. Using 170's, I have never had a problem.

 

Things that go bump on the road: On a regular bicycle, if you have to roll over sticks, flattened cardboard boxes, or bumps on the asphault, you can usually get away with it safely because you can coast over them. On a fixed gear you will have to pedal over them. As with a regular bike you want to unweight the saddle by standing, etc. so the bike doesn't take a beating. Practice pedalling standing on the pedals. Of course, many older road frames that are good candidates for conversion to fixed gear machines can fit wider tires, which also helps absorb bumps.

 

Traffic: Cars will invariably try to kill you if you ride a bike long enuff on the street, usually out of ignorance or carelessness rather than outright intent. Try to make sure they see you. My cycling jacket is bright yellow, a fashion disaster that makes me look like I belong on a coast guard chopper doing a sea rescue, but at least it is visible. Because dirvers are primarily accustomed to looking for other cars, even if they physically see you, the fact that you are there may not register. They may look past you. Wearing light colored or bright clothing can help minimize this. And for pete's sake use a light in the rain or when it is dark!

 

However, one should never assume the car can see him. When approaching a driveway, edge out into the lane of traffic. Cars exiting the driveway will nose out onto the street and expect you to screech to a halt to accomodate them. By edging out into the lane of traffic you not only make yourself more visible, but can usually go around them if they try to cut you off.

 

When approaching a stoplight on a main road, try to get in the right hand lane so you can just go when it turns green. This is the safest bet. Sometimes you can edge past cars but be careful it is not always a good idea because that guy next to you at the line may turn into you making an unsignalled right even tho his lack of a turnsignall indicates he's going straight.

 

Give a wide berth to anyone in a sport utility vehicle. Many suv's are driven not by offroaders or others who use them as trucks, but by distracted soccor moms too busy with their kids, cell phones, or groceries to look where they are going. The association is not always true but is often borne out by experience. As a general rule any driver on a cell phone should be avoided -- stay as far away from them as possible. With a phone in their hand they are even more unlikely than normal to use turn signals and are certainly unlikely to see you.

 

Look further down the road: Since your stopping time on a fixed gear is more deliberate, look ahead of you and block out a route around parked cars, jaywalking grandmas and debris. Watch for storm grates, recessed pipeline covers and other forms of intentionally created potholes, as well as potholes created by inclimate weather. When approaching a busy intersection, an area of driveways and storefronts, etc., slow down just in case.

 

Stopping and foot placement: Take your dominant foot off the pedal about two revs of the cranks prior to coming to a stop. Whenever possible stop by resistance braking. It is more controlled. Use the handbrake to slow down if need be, however [if you are using one].

 

Winter riding: Winter riding has its own risks if you live in an area where there is snow. owever, it can be safe and fun.

Because there is a danger of sliding out on snow or ice, do not lean into turns.

If possible, mount wider tires on your bicycle when riding int he winter. If your fixie normally runs 700x23c, for instance, upgrade it to 700x35c during the snowy months.

 

Never "hit the brakes" when it is snowy as you will invariably skid or slide, looing control. Rely on resistance braking. If you are using handbrake(s) you can use them with caution but rely primarily upon the drivetrain of your fixie for deceleration.

In the winter time, run an easier gear. If you normally run 48x18, for example, your winter fix should probably be somewhere in the vicinity of 42x18 or even 39 or 40x18.

Lube your chain! There is no excuse for not taking care of your fixed gear bicycle, esp. since the only real moving part is the drivetrain. Lube your chain after every ride or so. Riding in rain and/or snow can cause chain rust in a matter of a day or two if not properly dealt with.

If you ride in the rain or snow, wipe of the bicycle afterwards. Put a drop of oil in recessed bolt heads such as the handlebar stem bolt head, to prevent rust from setting in. If you ride in the snow you should be especially careful to clean the bike to prevent rust; wipe off the frame, spokes, etc. -- everything -- with a damp paper towel or cloth to remove salt from the road. Road salt can ruin a bicycle and its components.

Fixed Gear

article source : http://www.angelfire.com