Cannondale Rize One 20 2 review


"Low slung and potentially fun, but weight and low traction dulls feel"

A full 1.5in head tube, big main tubes plus sharp and shapely shock and drop-out furniture make the RZ mainframe a tight and twist-free structure. 

The massive oversized stem and stiff mid-width bars transfer accurate control into your palms even with the QR-tipped fork. The long wheelbase and low-slung ride height, plus a tendency to sit back into its rear travel, feels really stable and we were pushing it harder on rougher, rockier trails than most other 120mm bikes.

While equipment levels are reasonable, weight is high and the Schwalbe tyres are slow and slippery. Despite decent pedalling manners and front and rear lockout this left it feeling harder work – particularly on climbs – than we’d hope for a 120mm bike and overall agility was stifled too.

Wellgo W-01 pedals review


"Lightweight SPD compatible performance at an excellent price "

SPD fans will feel instantly at home with the compatible Wellgo pedal. It doesn’t have quite the ‘thunk’ that comes with the positive engagement or release of the Shimano, which might take some getting used to, but we didn’t find it an issue. In fact, it delivers a minimally smooth ride. 

There wasn’t as much float as we’d normally expect from SPDs and we were aware of feeling the cleat on the axle more, but that didn’t prove to be a problem in use. The overwhelming benefit of this pedal is its weight. Coming in at 300g it’s nicely light at a not-too-shabby price.

Although it's proved to be durable throughout our test, we have to say that it wouldn’t be our first choice for something that was required to bear the brunt and grunt of our workaday trail bashing. But for a lightweight bike build, or even a second set of pedals (if you already run SPDs), it’s hard to argue with the W-01’s price, weight and quiet no-fuss performance combination.

2011 Fox F100 FIT TerraLogic fork review


"Hands down the best fork available for hardtails and racers, but trail riders and suspension geeks may want to look elsewhere"

Once Fox started development on their FIT RLC bladder damper design for short-travel forks, they pulled their original open bath TerraLogic inertia damper off the market. The concept is back for 2011, however, and we have the exclusive first review.
TerraLogic refers to an automatic lockout that works via an inertia valve. The original incarnation of the system was produced from 2003 to 2007 and was pulled off the market because its performance didn’t match the new standard set by the FIT cartridge. New technology means those previous issues have been addressed, however, and the 2011 fork’s performance has been taken to a new level.

TerraLogic damping will be available on 32 F-Series, F29, TALAS and TALAS29 models in 2011. BikeRadar exclusively tested the US$850 (UK pricing TBC) F100 model for a month prior to Fox’s official launch to bring you this review. The F-series chassis remains relatively unchanged aside from the use of the Kashima Coat, which we explain further below.

Who, what, when, where?
The TerraLogic concept is a love-it-or-hate-it technology. It’s geared toward cross-country racers, but also caters to the set-it-and-forget-it crowd and even the all-mountain brigade. It’s best for riders who prefer to just get on with pedalling, rather than those who enjoy tuning their suspension for a particular course or trail, or like to flip levers during the ride.
The 2011 terralogic system is incorporated into a fit closed damper system.: the 2011 terralogic system is incorporated into a fit closed damper system.
No levers to flip, mid-ride, on this fork

TerraLogic is also predominately a hardtail technology. Why? Unless you’re riding a suspension bike with some sort of pedalling platform that wants to lock out when you stand on it – say dw-link, VPP or Specialized with rear inertia damper – the bike will be hard to balance. This is especially noticeable when standing or sprinting on smooth terrain or road.

That said, we originally fitted our F100 TerraLogic fork on a hardtail but it eventually found its way to a Giant Anthem full-suspension bike where, after a bit of tuning, we found an acceptable balance and performance that would be ideal for racing.
On the hardtail, the TerraLogic performed better than any other damper we've ridden. Once the fork’s bump threshold (which lets you set the amount of force needed to deactivate the lockout) was ‘bracketed’ — adjusting the threshold in from full open until it sufficiently quieted during climbing and sprinting — we did adjust one or two clicks each way depending on the terrain, but nothing more. Fine-tuning was much like with a rebound damper; very rarely do you make large adjustments from your original preferred position.
The giant mountain bike team will use terralogic on its full-suspension bikes, according to fox.: the giant mountain bike team will use terralogic on its full-suspension bikes, according to fox.
TerraLogic on Giant's Anthem

The new F100 TerraLogic is the best fork we've ridden for hardtail mountain bikes, especially when the task is racing. However, once we moved it over to the full-suspension bike, a few bugs did crop up. It’s here that we have to say that, if we were spending our own money, we'd probably stick with an RLC damped fork for a full-suspension bike. The reason is the aforementioned balancing difficulty.
Balancing an RLC fork with an RP23 shock is pretty easy once you’ve got the hang of it. By using the lockout threshold force adjuster on the fork you can match it to each of the three levels of rear ProPedal platform damping adjustment almost perfectly on many bikes. If you have these components and haven’t worked to find this balance, you’re truly missing out.

With the TerraLogic damper you again select your threshold but once that’s overcome, the fork abruptly opens up and this feeling – almost like an unhinging – unbalances the bike. Depending on the rear suspension design, we imagine the effect will vary from slightly noticeable to extremely irritating. On the Giant Anthem we tested it with, it’s ever so slightly noticeable.

The new system uses  an adjustable blow-off valve bypass to adjust the fork's platform feel.: the new system uses  an adjustable blow-off valve bypass to adjust the fork's platform feel.
The 15-click damper adjustment brings the fork from the full-open feel of an R damper to the full-closed feel of a locked out RL damper

However, the advantage to being able to 'set it and forget it' is still there, especially for cross-country racers. The old TerraLogic technology was liked by many racers and the new version has a much broader range in its threshold adjustment, with 15 clicks that vary the feel from full lockout to what feels like just low-speed compression, to no perceivable platform at all – a major improvement.

Balancing issues aside, there are two other chinks in the F100 TerraLogic fork’s armour: its weight – 1,590g with full 265mm steerer tube, which is about 135g heavier than the equivalent RLC damped fork – and the placement of the threshold adjuster at the bottom of the right fork leg.
After Fox moved the RLC’s threshold adjuster to our fingertips at the top of the leg, we're left wanting it up high on this fork too. Unfortunately, the nature of the inertia valve means its mass must be attached to the lower leg for it to work. “We’d love to put the threshold on the top, but it just doesn’t function if the valve is at the top,” said Andrew Laird, Fox’s lead engineer for the TerraLogic project.

Reboud adjustment is back to the top of the right fork leg.:
The rebound adjuster gets prime position on the top of the right leg

TerraLogic and FIT integrate

The main difference between the new fork and the previous discontinued TerraLogic dampers is how the bump threshold adjustment works. In adjusting the old open bath system, you changed the spring force exerted to hold the inertia mass in the closed position. More tension kept the valve closed over harder hits.
The new damper has four key components that influence BrassMass automatic lockout and compression damping: the inertia valve, threshold adjustment circuit, inertia timing valve and speed sensitive shim stack. First and foremost, the new system’s inertia valve lockout uses a separate circuit.
Instead of increasing the spring force holding the inertia valve closed, like the old system, the new TerraLogic damper uses a blow-off piston circuit to adjust its platform feel, which operates like the threshold adjustment system used in the RLC damper.
The new TerraLogic damper also incorporates the FIT design of an expanding bladder. It’s a closed system, which is both lighter and more resistant to cavitation (which leads to fade) that the open system was. FIT also helps smooth the transitional feel of the inertia valve from open to closed.

Furthermore, the new damper has a timing valve that keeps the inertia valve from becoming confused after extended bouts of descending – an issue for the old system. Finally, once the damper fluid runs through the threshold circuit or the inertia valve it is controlled by a speed sensitive (referring to damper shaft speed) shim stack.
“We didn’t want limitations, but we felt that one adjuster was sufficient; we didn’t want it to be too complicated,” said Laird, when asked why the inertia valve’s preload adjuster was removed from the new damper. “We feel that the blow-off adjuster offers a greater benefit than the spring preload [on the inertia mass], because it can really change the characteristic of the fork from full-firm to full-open, like you’re running an R damper.”
In the new damper, adjusting the ‘platform’ feel doesn’t affect how the inertia valve works at all; no matter if the threshold is set fully closed or open, it takes the same amount of force to open it – just over a G. The actual force required to overcome the inertia valve’s threshold is a closely guarded secret that is based upon the eight years Fox spent developing and producing TerraLogic. Its development cycle never really stopped even though production did.

“There’s a lot of testing that goes into that,” said Laird. “It’s as close as you can be, without it opening too often.” Besides the benefit of FIT, the dedicated threshold valve allows for a simpler inertia valve, which is said to be both more consistent and more robust than the old adjustable version.

Going for gold

The biggest story outside of the new FIT TerraLogic damper is Fox’s use of the Miyaki Company’s Kashima Coat on the fork’s legs. All of Fox’s high-end aftermarket forks, including RC2, RLC, TerraLogic and Remote damped versions, get the slippery coating for 2011.

The Japanese motorsports company’s coating is said to reduce friction and improve the legs’ resistance to wear. It's said to quadruple the hardness and abrasion resistance of the stanchions, when compared to a standard hard anodised finish. Since this is a new damper it was hard to put a finger on exactly how the Kashima Coat influences the feel of the fork when riding. We look forward to testing a Kashima Coated coil sprung fork against an equivalent model standard legs later on this year to better evaluate its performance.

TerraLogic offers set-it-and-forget-it use, which will especially benefit hypoxic cross-country racers.:
The Kashima Coat gives the upper legs a golden hue

“We started racing on it last year with just our downhillers because that’s where you see the most wear and tear,” said Elayna Caldwell, Fox’s marketing manager. “We'd tried other coatings in the past like electroless nickel and had good results for racing, but we weren’t comfortable with it for long-term durability and putting it on production products. Last year we used the Kashima coat and we’re happy with the durability for consumer use.”

Where will TerraLogic end up?

Overall, this is the fork we’d pick from Fox’s line for any hardtail: 26er or 29er, for racing or just riding. It’s a superb and refined technology that shines.
For the full-suspension user, it’s much tougher to whole-heartedly recommend TerraLogic over RLC. The set-it-and-forget-it rider using a suspension chassis with anti-squat or Specialized’s inertia damped rear shock will be impressed. But the tuners, the riders who enjoy really maximising their suspension performance, are still going to be best off with the latest FIT RLC damper.

Marzocchi ultralight Corsa 29 cross-country fork

Marzocchi offered up a sneak preview at the Sea Otter Classic of their new Corsa 29, an ultralight, 80/100mm-travel cross-country fork aimed at the 29er crowd that is set to be released this coming September.  

Target weight is just 1,590g (3.5lb) – the same as RockShox's new SID 29 – largely thanks to a new one-piece carbon fiber steerer and crown.  The 32mm-diameter aluminum legs are nickel-plated to reduce friction and the cast magnesium lower legs will be offered with 15mm thru-axle dropouts exclusively.  Marzocchi plan to fill the structure with an air spring on one side and its TST Micro damper on the other with adjustable rebound, compression, and blowoff threshold.

An optional remote lockout lever is also likely to appear this fall. Projected retail price for the Corsa 29 is a premium US$1,000 but Marzocchi also plan on releasing a second version with steel upper legs for a much more attainable US$599.  This version will of course be heavier – though probably not by a huge amount – but the steel stanchions should also boost stiffness, too.

How to Clean a Mountain Bike


With a job description that includes rolling countless miles through mud and dirt, it's no surprise that your mountain bike isn't the cleanest thing in your house, or even your garage.

But maybe it should be.
A mountain bike doesn't need to sparkle in the sunlight (it's just going to get dirty the next time the sun is out anyway), but a regular cleaning routine can prevent problems down the road. Plus, a clean bike will last longer and improve performance.

Prepare For a Dirty Job
Cleaning your bike is a messy job! Don't even think about wearing your favorite shirt—or any shirt you don't want covered in grime. Putting on a shop apron and rubber gloves isn't a bad idea, either. Oh, and if you thought you could do this inside four walls, you thought wrong. Unless you're in an area where black grease won't look out of place.

Collect Cleaning Supplies
Before you get to scrubbing, make sure you have the appropriate supplies. Park Tool recommends the following materials:
  • Bicycle cleaning brush
  • Repair stand
  • Chain scrubber
  • Degreasing solvent
  • Chain lubricant
  • Rags and sponges
  • Two buckets
  • Biodegradable dishwashing liquid
  • Water hose
Both buckets should be filled with hot water as warmer temperatures will clean the bike better. Dishwashing liquid should be mixed into one of these buckets. As you clean your bike more often, you'll be able to decide which items you can't live without.

Scrub, Scrub, Scrub
Clumps of mud, leaves, sand and other grime should be wiped clean from your bike after every ride. Why? It can destroy drivetrains, brakepads and shifting. Plus it's heavy, and if you're like me, you need to shed every possible pound before shreddin' the trail.
After obvious souvenirs from the trail are removed from your bike, place the bike in a repair stand (if you have one), wipe the whole rig down with soapy water and apply degreaser to the drivetrain. Removing the wheels will allow you to clean areas that are typically unseen. Brushes, rags and sponges should be used to get rid of mud and other grit. Just remember to gently scrub your bike down. You don't want to damage your paint job!

Don't neglect your chain and rear cassette. You can either manually clean the chain by gently scrubbing with a brush (a toothbrush works well for this) and water right where it meets the rear cassette, or use an on-the-bike cleaning machine, which clips over the lower part of the chain and bathes the chain in solvent. Backpedal the chain through a rag drenched in degreaser once it's scrubbed clean.

Wash all other areas of the bike down with a biodegradable soapy water mix. Then rinse it down with a hose. Note: high pressure water hoses are NOT safe to spray your bike with. Use a garden hose on a gentle setting and don't spray water into the bearings.

Lube & Grease
Once your bike is dry, your chain, cables, levers, shifters, derailleur pulleys, pivot points and brake bosses need to be lubricated. So as not to invite more dirt for a ride, wipe off any excess lube after application.
I like to give my bike a little grease at this point too. Typically, my attention turns to the pedals and seat post. I remove both my pedals and seat post, then apply the grease where metal makes contact with metal (in the case of the pedals, grease is applied to the threads that screw into the crank arms).

Tip: Don't have a repair stand? Don't worry! Just lay your bike against a wall, hang the seat over a thick tree branch to suspend it in the air or use a bike rack.

Ride in Control


There are several ways to improve ATV safety. Some, like me, this helmet is the most important step you can do. However, the second most important step is to remember always out of control.

Riding in the company not only helps avoid accidents, prevent certain other ways too. Once out of hand, you lose the ability to adapt to and about the environment. This can and should lead to serious accidents and injuries to themselves and others.

Cycling is dangerous and we do all boundaries sometimes, but it is a fine between the limits of safe driving recklessly.

Follow these guidelines to ensure road safety and the legal threat.

Accelerate
Always wear a helmet and other protective clothing for the driving conditions.

Never to ride on the range.
Is not ashamed to feel the track points lead is not safe enough to travel and you can not tell anyone otherwise.

Use the right equipment for the field.
Some bikes are better in different situations. Just because you can see tire tracks, does not mean that you go by bike.

Keep your speed under control.
Keep your speed at a level that adapt to the unforeseen obstacles or changes in track conditions.

For more information about the song.
Do not push the limits of an unknown street. You know the way to drive at low speed before it routes that can be used to run.

Slow blind spots.
You never know who or what is behind, where not to see you about them.

So look and stop.
There was no trace lines, which seems to be a challenge before the installation.

Map of the event. Always look for the consequences of failure is a part, or something, before you try to find out. Sometimes it may seem easy to install components, but can be deadly accident.

Start Small, Go Big.
Work, such as obstacles and tricks. Find ways, moving in difficult situations and less dangerous, or at low speeds practice before it becomes a little dangerous.

Play Smart.
If you believe what you are doing is not the most intelligent, but the right one. Think about what you and trust your instincts .