Crankbrothers Multi-17 Tool

Crankbrothers Multi-17 Tool

This is probably the first tool any cyclist should have. The multi tool is essential. It’s small form factor means it’s portable, so it can be used in the garage for quick adjustments, or out on the road. The Crank Brothers Multi 17 packs quite the arsenal of tools in a relatively light weight package. For the 168 grams, you get 17 tools including a chain tool. If you’re only going to have one multi tool, this is the tool to have.
If you’re a weight weenie or are looking to carry the bare minimum of tools to get you by on a ride, Crank Brothers also has a Multi 10 ($20), with no chain tool, and the Multi-5 ($13) with the just 5 of bare essentials.
Tools Include:
- Chain Tool 8/9/10 speed compatible
- Spoke Wrenches #1, 2, 3, 4
- Hex Wrenches #2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8
- Philips and Flat screwdrivers
- 8mm and 10mm open wrenches
- Torx t-25

Park Tool Home Mechanic Starter Kit

Park Tool Home Mechanic Starter Kit

This kit from Park Tool is a great start to a tool collection. It includes all the essentials to get the novice home mechanic working on basic repairs, cleaning, adjusting, and maintaining their bike. 14 tools in a custom Park Tool toolbox for easy storage.
Tools included:
- AWS-10 Wrench Set, 2mm to 6mm
- CT-5 MiniChain Brute Chain Tool
- DCW-1 Double Ended Cone Wrench 13mm & 14mm
- DCW-2 Double Ended Cone Wrench 15mm & 16mm
- DCW-3 Double Ended Cone Wrench 17mm & 18mm
- GSC-1 GearClean Brush
- FR-5 Cassette Lockring Remover
- HCW-16 Pedal Wrench and Chain Whip
- SD-2 Shop Screwdriver #2 Phillips
- SD-3 Shop Screwdriver 3mm Straight Blade
- SW-7 Three-way Spoke Wrench
- TL-1 Tire Levers
- VP-1 Vulcanizing Patch Kit
- HR-8 Hex wrench

Specialized Tricross Sport Cyclocross Bike

Specialized Tricross Sport Cyclocross Bike

Bike Setup:

Swapped the 32c tires for 25c. Threw on some lights and ditched the reflectors. Added a bell to ward off pedestrians. All the little things that make the experience commuting in the city a little better. Otherwise, everything else that is stock is still on.
Summary:
My first bike since I was 15 (I am 27 now). I am 6’7″, 235 lbs riding on a 61 cm frame. It’s a good overall ride. This bike is my primary source for commuting, but it is also fun to take out on the trails and the open road. The stock tires are great overall and provide ample traction but are slow and tiresome to work with. Recommend throwing on smaller slicks if you plan on mainly riding on good pavement.
The bike is at a decent weight of 24lbs and is not the fastest thing to ride, but does maneuver well. I ride all the time in DC where there are plenty of hills galor. Sometimes I find myself out pacing local traffic, especially when flying downhill on Independence Avenue. Also took it for a couple of spins through Rock Creek Park where there were plenty of slopes and fast/tight turns. Steering is very good but not extremely agile (perhaps this is do to my size as well as the size of the bike itself).
The bottom line is that this is a solid bike but doesn’t really stand out of the pack. It’s great for getting around down and hitting the open road.
Strengths:
Versatile enough to take on trails with lousy pavement and do some light off road riding. Handeling is nothing special but definitely not a weakness.
Weaknesses:
Shifting is adequate, though I find myself having to sometimes readjusting because the rear derailer can get a bit chatty after awhile, even after a good cleaning and greasing. None the less, the drivetrain keeps up well enough to navigate your way in and out of traffic. This won’t be an issue in any other scenario.
The breaks are ok but not all that spectacular either.

Kurt Kinetic Road Machine- My Exhaustive Review

Kurt Kinetic Road Machine- My Exhaustive Review!

The Kurt Kinetic Road Machine shines because of magnetic coupling, medical-grade silicone, and an unconditional guarantee. There’s a good reason the Road Machine’s the official trainer of the USA Cycling Team.
When Pam from Kurt Kinetic offered to send out a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine for review, I thought it was a great idea…for several reasons.
  • I’ve been pounding out mile after mile on my original Kurt Kinetic Fluid trainer for five winters now, and it’s never let me down.
  • In my obsession to search for the best bike trainers to recommend to my readers, the consensus has been that the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine is at the top of the heap.
  • But for some time now, I’ve been wondering how much different the Road Machine is from my ‘old’ trainer.
Well, it turns out that Kurt Kinetic hit on a winner with the original design… and except for a new ‘hair color’, the two units are nearly identical. Wisely, Kurt Kinetic decided to not fix something that isn’t broken.
There are now several new fancy Kurt Kinetic horses in the stable (namely, the Rock and Roll), but the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine is like a cowboy’s trusted quarter horse – not too flashy, but SOLID and impervious to breakdowns.
I do have an idea or two to make it even better, but I’ll get to that later…
kurt kinetic road machine1 e1304193685854 Kurt Kinetic Road Machine  My Exhaustive Review!
My Scott CR1 put on his best wheels to meet the Road Machine.
1) Magnetic Coupling Makes The Kurt Kinetic Road Machine Stand Out In The Crowd
Kurt Kinetic magnetic coupling e1292520824229 Kurt Kinetic Road Machine  My Exhaustive Review!
Cut away view of Resistance Unit
If you’re new to the bike trainer world you may not have heard of Kurt Kinetic’s unique magnetic coupling design. I’ll get you up to speed.
While fluid trainers are recognized as being at the top of the trainer food chain, they do suffer from a fatal flaw. They start to develop leaks when they shouldn’t, and have to be put out to pasture.
I’m just thankful that such a fate doesn’t await us older men when we start leaking inappropriately at social events. My kids assure me that I’m safe…at least for now.
Kurt Kinetic forged its place in the bike trainer world with a patent that eliminated the need for O-Rings (which predictably fail). In the Road Machine, the chamber containing the silicone fluid is completely sealed, and the roller which your bike tire is causing to spin is ‘virtually’ connected to the impeller by a magnetic coupler.
This is best understood by watching the video below.
Don’t get this confused with a mag trainer, which uses magnetic resistance to provide the workload.
The Kurt Kinetic system uses powerful magnets to couple the external roller assembly with the sealed impellers. That means that  there’s no shaft penetrating the inner sanctum of the fluid.
Check out the video later in this post for an excellent cut-away of the two chambers.

2) How Strong Are The Magnets In The Kurt Kinetic Road Machine?

There were times in the past when I’d accelerate on my Kurt Kinetic fluid trainer and feel some slippage. I wondered if the slippage was occurring inside the trainer; in the inner sanctum of the magnetic coupling.
It turns out it wasn’t the ‘innards’ that were failing. Here’s how I found out- I practically wore out my rear tire within the span of a couple of indoor rides. Like a meat head, I hadn’t put enough tension between the roller and my tire. All of that slippage was tearing the tire up.
Since those early ill-fated rides, I’ve discovered that the idea of me having enough power in my legs to disrupt the bond between the coupling magnets was wishful thinking. Kurt Kinetic’s testing demonstrated that the magnetic bond withstood an electric motor’s ability to suddenly accelerate the trainer from 0 to 50 mph without any slippage.
My abilities are somewhat less than that.
On a similar note, this trainer provides up to 3000 watts of resistance. As a point of reference, elite road cyclists may produce up to 1700 watts as an instantaneous maximum at the end of a road race. Instantaneous means for the first few seconds of their ‘jump’ as they accelerate.

E*thirteen downhill crankset review


The downhill cranks from e*thirteen were designed and developed by their co-company, The Hive, and are constructed from 7050 aluminium which is forged then machined to make these sleek looking beauties. 

At their heart sits a heat treated chromoly spindle in either 113 or 123mm lengths depending on your bottom bracket shell width. It’s this 30mm spindle that helps keep things stiff, along with the polygon interface where the non-driveside crank arm attaches.
Fitting the e*thirteens is a fairly straightforward process but you’ll need to read the instructions to get things set up perfectly.They do actually provide the tool for the bottom bracket cup installation and that serves as a reminder that this is a unique bit of kit – well worth bearing in mind on any trips away.

Since installing our 175mm samples we did actually notice a difference in stiffness over the previous crank we were running. These are solid. They’ve really taken a beating so far and both bottom bracket and cranks are still holding up well.
Considering our sample weighed in at around 810g (without bottom bracket) and being on par price-wise with other top end units, these are certainly worth a look should you be in the market for a new downhill crankset.

Maxxis Advantage 2.1in mountain bike tyre review


We’ve Put the Advantage tyres through the grinder for a few months now and they’ve thoroughly proved their worth. We tested the 2.1in foldable dual compound LUST but there are also 2.25in and 2.4in versions. The Advantage will suit aggressive cross-country/trail riders. 

They corner really well thanks to the big side knobs, which inspire fast riding, and they love getting loose in loamy flat turns. The LUST sidewalls are light and very tough and we’ve had no problems deflecting rocks or losing air running them at low pressures. The central diagonal tread makes for brilliant climbing and braking on everything except really wet rocky or rooty sections.The wide lug spacing also sheds most mud types quickly and they roll superbly. They work best as a front option paired with a slicker rear in slightly drier conditions.

Giant Anthem X1 review

Steep-angled 100mm-travel full-suspension bikes are normally great for tearing up between the tapes, but Giant’s Anthem X continues to tear up the rule book. Tweaks to the frame for 2011 make it feel like it spent the whole winter down the gym building muscle exactly where it makes the most difference.

The result is a totally ripped all-terrain athlete that’s equally inspirational in terms of ego boosting efficiency and scorching speed on startline or singletrack alike. Add benchmark trail kit and you’ve got an extremely versatile, extreme velocity machine whatever you aim it at. If you're more about GPS and maps than jumping gaps, and more likely to stick a race number on than shin pads, this bike is the outstanding option.

Ride & handling: Delivers an intense and inspirational ride whatever the terrain

It’s not the solidly sorted spec that continues to make the Anthem such a fast favourite; it’s the insatiably rapid and involving ride attitude. Looking at the super-steep head angle and relatively long stem you’d think this bike is something of a dinosaur, but its default setting of devastating speed makes this an alligator of a bike that’s still got no natural predators.
The snap-reaction steering takes some getting used to, with a tendency to twist the front tyre underneath you if you’re pulling too much front brake at low speeds. The longer stem is needed to keep it manageable as you get into a big ring spin and the trail edges start to blur.
The 25lb all-up weight makes acceleration and altitude gain addictively easy too. Even if a recovery pootle rather than predatory pursuit was on the agenda at the start of your ride it won’t last long. You’ll soon find yourself snicking up through the gears, building speed in each one, then the next until you’re skimming down the singletrack and sprinting up climbs rather than dropping gears and dawdling. 

Decent side knobs and that planted cornering precision of the longer stem means there’s no question of backing off in corners either. The new bike adds very noticeable extra fork and frame stiffness for even more accurate feedback and G force fighting tenacity. We’ve lost count of the number of riders who’ve raved about how hard you can push an Anthem through turns or how many riders they’ve scalped by diving underneath them as they’ve slid out of a greasy corner.

Don’t underestimate the amount of control the Anthem wrings out of 4in of suspension movement either. While the colour-coded blue finish was the source of some love/hate debate, nobody complained about the performance of the Fox F11 fork. Up the climbs the next-to-grip lockout lever means you can stomp the pedals round as hard as you can without worrying about bounce and then open the fork for rougher stuff without even taking a thumb off the bars. 

While the FIT cartridge makes it firm over small stuff (run the tyres tubeless if you want ultimate smoothness) its ability to swallow serious hits without coughing up control is outstanding for a race fork. A through-axle and tapered steerer means there’s no slur or deviation in the steering either opening up more cornering, off camber and overtaking opportunities than most forks.

The back end is similarly sorted, with the option to run a buoyant open setting of three different levels of ProPedal low-speed compression damping giving as firm or as fluid a ride as you want. Ground clearance is an occasional issue but the Maestro suspension lets you keep the power on whatever is happening under your wheels, and traction is wonderfully consistent.
Giant anthem x1: giant anthem x1
Rear end stiffness and damping composure mean no ricochet or need to ‘collect’ control even after substantial drops or sequential hits. The Maxxis CrossMark tyres are a lot tougher than most race rubber too, making rock rips less of a worry when you’re going off piste. While it’s no all-mountain cockpit setup, the little bit of lift and extra leverage from the mid-width riser compared to the traditional racer flat bar makes getting the front wheel off the ground or correcting a slide a lot easier than normal.

Frame & equipment: Newly pumped-up chassis plus sorted parts spec

The big changes for 2011 are an ‘Over Drive’ tapered head tube, ‘Mega Drive’ oversized down tube and press-fit ‘Power Drive’ bottom bracket. These mean significant steering and pedalling stiffness gains up front. A two-piece linkage replaces the previous bolted linkage while a post-style rear brake mount saves bracket weight at the far end of the swingarm. So while the actual frame is no lighter it’s a significantly stiffer proposition that builds a lighter overall bike.
In terms of kit, Giant have kept it simple. Shimano’s triple-ring XT might not be the lightest groupset – particularly compared to SRAM’s 2x10 setups – but it’s reliable and much longer lasting. The longevity theme continues with the tough XT wheels, which also add tubeless tyre running capability. Maxxis CrossMark tyres still surprise us with their combination of rolling speed and grip in all but the sloppiest conditions. 

The Fox fork and shock combo is another control enhancing benchmark and Giant’s own-brand low-riser bar is a decent width for adding steering authority. The Giant stem and seatpost are good too, while Fizik’s long, firm second generation Tundra 2 is a great saddle for mileage-hardened hindquarters.

Source:bikeradar.com 

BOS Vip’R Rear Shock Review


The first air shock from French suspension fanatic BOS is expensive and stiff over the small stuff, but a belter if you’re a big mountain rider. Developed with French DH legend Nico Voullioz, BOS’s Rare coil shock has been a cult item amongst gravity riders. 

The Vip’R is relatively heavy for an air shock but the low-speed compression lever makes a difference for climbing. Even at the minimum setting stiction means a chattery ride over smaller bumps, and it’s hard to detect the subtle position sensitive damping changes the rebound dial makes in the car park too, which makes initial tuning difficult. 

Start pushing hard on the trail and there’s amazing mid stroke support and control. It always looks to be at the same point in travel and seems to drive the bike forward on rolling or rocky sections. Control over larger, faster hits is phenomenal and it rarely bottoms out even at lower pressures. Its performance comes at a cost, but includes custom tuning for your bike and relevant hardware.

Haro Flightline Comp Review

The long established Haro brand is probably better know for its BMX rigs. The UK distributor doesn’t bring in the complete mountain bike range but the 2011 hardtails look great. As with many of its price rivals, a Flightline Comp can be found for less than its RRP if you’re willing to shop around. That’s a good thing, as it’s up against better-equipped bikes at this price.
The Flightline Comp has a great frame and rides well but we expect to find a better fork than a RockShox Dart at this price. It’s hefty and under-equipped for its RRP, but worth considering if you find one for less.

Ride & handling: Overall trail feel is good

There are lighter bikes available around the £800 mark: its 30lb heft is noticeable in initial acceleration and on climbs. But overall trail feel is good, with only the mediocre fork performance reminding you that rough trails need extra body language when riding on a budget fork. The ride position is well stretched for efficient power transfer on long climbs, the steering is very nicely balanced on even the most technically demanding singletrack and the super-soft saddle and soft compound grips add to trail comfort. A 12in bottom bracket height boosts stability but takes a while to get used to, initially causing pedal/ ground strikes through bumpy corners.

Frame: Nicely designed

The frame has double-butted top, seat and down tubes. Swoopy hydroformed biaxially ovalised shaping to the top and down tubes creates great aesthetics and boosts tracking stiffness, while smooth-welded tube junctures make for a very clean look, flattered by the integral headset and full-outer-cable routing. Standover height is roomy and there are three sets of bottle cage bosses and rack mounts. 

Equipment: Fork and crankset are downgrades

The RockShox Dart 2 fork has decent factory set compression damping, a ‘lockout lever’ that still leaves a small amount of compression and a preload dial to increase the pressure it takes to compress the fork. That’s all fine, and the 100mm of travel is welcome, but skinny stanchions contribute to noticeable flex, especially when braking hard on bumpy terrain.
The drivetrain package starts well, with an XT rear gear matched to Deore up front and Deore shifters, but a steel ringed square taper-axled bottom bracket Truvativ crankset, while it works well enough, is a downgrade compared to a lot of other bikes we’ve seen around this price. While there’s nothing actually wrong with it - the bottom bracket will actually cost less to replace than some higher spec units - you’d save weight and get more drivetrain stiffness on better units.

Basic Shimano hydraulic disc brakes take a few rides to bed in but they have enough power to suit all but the most demanding riders. The WTB-rimmed wheels are tough enough and Kenda’s Kadre treads roll fast and grip well in the dry but clog in sticky mud. No complaints about Haro’s own brand Pivit finishing kit though. The 25in riser bars are a good happy medium between wide riser bars that are great for extra control off road and narrower straight bars that are probably better if lots of your miles are on the road. The Haro Race saddle is a good compromise too, slimline but supportive and comfy.

Argon 18 Krypton review

The Krypton frame has been designed around Argon 18’s Horizontal Dual System (HDS) concept: imagine a diagonal line from the top of the head-tube to the rear dropouts – everything below this is designed with maximum rigidity and stiffness for power transfer and handling, while everything above should be more flexible (vertically) to improve comfort. 

It also has Argon 18’s 3D head-tube, which replaces standard headset spacers with threaded ones that match the head-tube diameter. rather than adding spacers above the headset’s top-bearing race, you screw them in below, effectively extending the head-tube. It should be better for headset bearing life and stress the fork less.

Get the bike out on the road and the front end feels sharp, direct and quick to respond. The same can be said about the whole bike. Out-of-the-saddle efforts are instantly rewarded, with no movement or flex, backed up by Fulcrum’s excellent Racing 5 wheels. These might not be the lightest wheels around but for the price we’d recommend them. They’re hardwearing, smooth rolling and have stayed true. The build also features the excellent 3T Ergosum/ARX Pro bar stem combo and Continental’s dependable 24mm GP tyres, as well as the carbon Campagnolo Centaur groupset.

Where the bike’s impressive control really comes into play is on more technical descents. It revels in fast, tight bends and switchbacks, with a great point and shoot nature. It certainly doesn’t do all the work for you though; it took some time to adapt to the evenly balanced, rigid feel. Sticking the Krypton into a corner at bigger lean angles requires faith and courage but the more you throw it over, the keener it feels. 

On the flat it feels ruthlessly efficient, positive and powerful, so we were a little surprised it doesn’t feel quite so great on the climbs. It isn’t sluggish, it just feels neutral. But it does a great job of keeping any vibrations at bay, making for a smooth overall ride and coping with rough, scarred surfaces well. If you’re looking for a bike with great handling and truly efficient performance, this should be high on your list of potentials.

Contour+ helmet camera – First ride review

The Full HD Contour+ has the best picture quality of any helmet cam we've tested but it's let down by poorly designed mounts and it's very expensive. It uses the same sleek brushed-alloy and plastic body as its predescessor, the ContourGPS, but this time with a smart raw finish and a wider angle lens (170 vs 135°). 

There's a large sliding 'record' button up top, which is easy to operate with gloved hands, along with a rotating lens so you can mount the camera at different angles. There's no screen but you can connect the Contour+ to your iPhone or Android mobile via Bluetooth and use your phone as a viewfinder, after downloading Contour's app. We tried this on both types of smartphone and found it works well. It's not as convenient as a built-in screen though, and we found it often takes a few tries to get the connection working. Another selling point of the Contour+ is the built-in GPS receiver, which tracks your filming location, speed and altitude, and can then display this information alongside your footage on your home computer using Contour's Storyteller software.

This too works well enough – see our review of the ContourGPS for more on this – but it isn't a feature that we found particularly useful. It can be turned off to save battery life but we'd rather Contour ditched it altogether and brought the price down a bit. The microphone jack is a good idea, though, and the HDMI output means you can watch your footage on your TV.
All of these ports are hidden under a flap at the back of the camera, along with the microSD card slot and Mini USB battery charge point. This doesn't seem particularly well sealed and, while we didn't have any problems during our three-week test period, we'd question how well it would stand up to prolonged rain. (A waterproof case is available separately for £42.99, and Contour are about to launch a new waterproof helmet cam.)

When it comes to filming quality, we've no complaints. The Contour offers a 60 frames per second 'Action HD' mode at 1,280 x 720 pixels, plus 'Tall HD' (1,280 x 960, 30fps), 'Original HD' (1,280 x 720, 30fps) and stills (5MP) modes. However, most of the time we left it on the 1,920 x 1,080 / 30fps 'Full HD' setting.

The resulting footage takes up quite a bit of memory so you'll need to swap the supplied 2GB card for something larger. Our replacement 8GB card was ideal, with space for around an hour of footage, by which time the battery was starting to run out anyway.
Image quality is excellent, with a crisp look that easily outdoes the Contour's peers. The Contour+ handles transitions from open fields to dark woodland well and offers faithful colour reproduction. Testing took in everything from dank British woodland to sun-drenched hillsides in the Alps, and the camera handled everything with aplomb, once we'd sorted out a decent mount.

And that's our main beef with the Contour+: the mounts. We tested Contour's Vented Helmet Mount (£16.99/$19.99) earlier this year with the ContourGPS and weren't impressed, finding that the tilt feature built into its base resulted in unacceptable levels of play unless we resorted to home-made bodges. This time, we thought we'd give the XL Handlebar Mount (available separately for £24.99/$29.99) and Rotating Flat Surface Mount (two are included with the camera) a go.

Play wasn't an issue with the former, but we found that no matter how hard we tightened it, the camera would tend to come lose during the course of each ride and end up tilting over. Mounted on a downhill bike, we found that vibrations through the bar also had a tendency to make the lens rotate, again resulting in a wonky picture. On top of this we had the same problem experienced with any bar-mounted camera: constant steering inputs by the rider result in a shaky picture. The Rotating Mount fared better. We attached it to a Fox V3R downhill lid with trepidation, expecting the glue to become unstuck at any moment and send the camera hurtling to the ground or, worse, into our face. But much to our relief, it remained affixed, even when wrenching on the camera to remove it for charging. In fact, it's still stuck solid now and we have no idea how to get it off.

While the connection between mount and helmet is solid, there's still a bit of play between the mount and the camera, even when it's locked in place; not enough to make the footage unwatchable but enough to cause unwanted shake. This would be easy enough to sort out with some creative use of foam but again, homemade bodges shouldn't be needed with a £500 camera.

It's a shame, because in every other respect the Contour+ is impressive. If Contour could sort out a decent mount, they'd be onto a winner. As it is, rival cameras with better mounts are available for a couple of hundred pounds less. The Contour+ is available in the UK through Ultra Sport Europe.

Mongoose Fireball Review


Like GT, Mongoose are a brand with a deep BMX heritage, which shows in their hardcore MTBs. The Fireball might be low on their jump bike menu, but it still packs an excellent frame and highlighted componentry pack for a confident kick-ass ride on dirt, street or wherever else you take it.

Frame

You're certainly getting a great frame for your money here as it's the same frame as the top line Hardball. The big square headed main tubes get an embossed Mongoose logo for extra pimp appeal, and there's a neat shallow gusset underneath the thick wall head tube. The flat-topped top tube drops away steeply for maximum crotch clearance, with a seatpost quick release for easy height adjustment. The monster block profile seatstays run almost parallel down to the back wheel, while even deeper rectangular chainstays link to the bottom bracket with solid slab sections and welded pipe bridges. The real winning details on this frame are the massive open box horizontal dropouts. These come complete with neat screw-adjusted wheel carriers that also hold the rear mech plate.

The Fireball is perfect for use as a single gear set-up, and slotted brake mounts also mean easy alignment on either geared or singlespeed set-ups should you decide to upgrade to discs at a later date. Cable/hose mounts for discs are all present and correct, although the above top tube routing carries a small risk of catching your feet if you don't 'step through' high enough. The frame certainly has all-the-way upgrade potential as your riding progresses.

Ride

It's quickly obvious that the Fireball is slightly weightier than the other bikes here, but that translates into a fantastic feeling of total security in sketchy ground situations and reassuring stability in the air. It has no trouble getting every bit of drive you can supply through to the back wheel either, and it kicks hard off start lines or out of corners. The high bottom bracket also lets you get the power down even when you're right over in a turn.

This does show up the slight fork and wheel flex when you're powering hard with the front wheel on the floor, but otherwise it's a very accurate and sure-footed ride. The fork was also better than the GT's over rough singletrack, ungroomed trails and street sections, with the extra 20mm smoothing out step edges and roots alike, and there's no excess bounce or top-out/bottom-out clunk, which helps underline the confident and trustworthy feel of the bike.
Handling angles and weight distribution are excellent, with the compact top tube letting you really throw your weight around in the air or on the ground. Over-sized bars keep you fully informed of what's going on at ground level and the same is true of the massive rear stays; don't expect any cushy comfort from them if you decide to head out on a longer ride though.
The Mongoose Fireball is ideally equipped for shorter, more aggro adventures. The frame is premium quality and apart from the weather sensitive V-brakes and slightly baggy wheels on our test rig, there are no obvious weak links anywhere in the spec, despite the price tag.
Take it down the jump trails, grind and drop round town, huck the local Shore or DH spot, or just play around on whatever terrain you fancy, and the Fireball will feel grounded and fun. While it might be a little heavy out of the box, it's certainly worth upgrading all the way up to Eric Carter pro race spec with better forks and brakes.

Equipment

The good thing about this package is that there's nothing crying out for an immediate change. It's the only bike of the four with V-brakes, but unless your rims are rolling through muck constantly, they actually feel sharper than most cable discs.The wheels are ready to take discs anyway, though they did feel slightly baggy under real stress compared to the ultra-stiff frame, but the genuine Stick E compound Kenda tyres add masses of cornering confidence and all-round grip. Again, a bolted rear wheel gives security at the expense of convenience.

The stiff Mongoose-branded oversize cockpit also delivers plenty of clear pilot information, and the saddle and seatpost are equally fine. The Truvativ Ruktion double ring and bashguard cranks, with reinforced external bearing Howitzer bottom bracket, are ideal for this kind of hard usage bike. We weren't that fond of the forked lever SRAM shifters, but the short cage of the Suntour mech reduced chain rattle, a nice touch.

Suntour Duro forks give reliable, if basic, shock absorption, but the slight extra leg length of these 100mm travel units means a more flexy feel than the 80mm version on the GT. Again, the super stiff frame tends to emphasise that. You get a bottle cage mount for thirst quenching between runs too.

Mongoose Salvo Sport review


Mongoose’s three bike entry-level Salvo suspension line starts with the Sport here, but the same frame and cockpit are used on the £999 Elite model. It’s these basics that make the Salvo one of the better riding bikes at this price point, despite a slow rear shock and our limited love for the front fork.

Ride & handling: Balanced handling for off-road fun

The size specific cockpit dimensions are pretty much spot on for cross-country/trail use. It's this combination of reasonable length (rather than over-long) stem and decent width bars, you notice straight away compared to the Salvo's peers. While the angles of the frame itself are relatively steep and the tyres slippery, there’s far more leverage and authority in your hands with which to control them. There’s decent communication of what traction there is through both ends too, so while softer compound  tyres are an obvious upgrade, you can at least make the most of the Kendas that are fitted until you’ve got some spare cash.
While cable stretch and cam flex means you can’t use immediate bites of brake to steady and steer the Salvo, there’s decent power after the initial pause. As usual on cheap full suspension bikes, the basic Suntour fork has a pogo stick-style rebound and harsh top-out clank when lifted or launched. The actual absorbing action is reasonably plush and smooth though, with a reasonable spring weight for less aggressive riders and a controlled bottom out bump.
The extra stroke of the 190mm long KS shock lets it suck up bumps and fair sized drops in a controlled manner too. Being able to drop the saddle right down also helps when you want to drop into steep trails or off of edges.  The non-adjustable rear shock rebound is very slow though so it soon packs down and gets overwhelmed on multiple hits and stepped descents.
With the bike’s hefty weight making pedalling a real chore whatever the shock setting, the 120 to 95mm switch is largely redundant and has the potential to become a real rattle-and-shake weak spot as the bike gets older. The overall ride is still much more controlled and capable than that of many other budget full suspension bikes. Despite limitations you could have a lot of fun on reasonably challenging trails if you’re patient on the climbs.

Frame: Well made, with floating shock mount

The Salvo chassis certainly scores well on ‘proper bike’ points. The head tube is oversized and ring reinforced to take a clean-looking ‘zero stack’ headset. The down tube and top tube both have a subtle curve – the down tube to allow for fork-top clearance, and the top tube to allow shorts-contents clearance – and they taper and change section type along their length too.
The rocker link pivots have pop-on rubber caps to cover the bearings and the whole back end is admirably stiff. That’s despite a slot in the rocker to let you slide the quick-release lever secured seatstays from a 95 to 120mm (3.7 to 4.7in) travel position without altering geometry. Forged seatstay and chainstay bridges give plenty of tyre space.
The asymmetric chainstay terminals continue forward past the main pivot to provide a ‘floating’ mount for the bottom of the long coil shock. The seat collar is quick-release for dropping it right down easily and there are mounts for a bottle. The plastic clips under the top tube for rear gear cable and brake hose are absolutely crap though, so ziptie them shut before you start riding.

Equipment: Well-specced for the price


Speccing a budget suspension bike is always going to be a case of carefully balanced compromise at best, but the Salvo Sport is reasonably – if not outstandingly – rigged for the price. The Suntour fork might have a clanging top out but it’s reasonably smooth in terms of bump response. The KS coil shock obviously benefits from more stroke to better suck up impacts than the units seen on the Salvo's peers. 

The D section Alex disc wheels are sturdy enough and the tyres are something close to a useful tread, although plasticky rubber compound still makes them very dicey on wet wood and rocks. Quick-release axles front and rear enable easy car loading and puncture repair though. As ever, the cable discs lack the immediacy and sharp control of hydraulic brakes, but deliver reasonable all-weather power eventually. SRAM and Shimano gears with ‘proper’ trigger shifters are a definite bonus in terms of precision and shift speed, although the Suntour chainset doesn’t have replaceable chainrings. The saddle is decent quality, too.

Muddy Fox Reflex review

Muddy Fox were one of the first big MTB brands in Britain over 20 years ago, but now they concentrate on the value end of the market. The Reflex is a good-looking bike with more control than most of its peers and some decent gear for its current reduced selling price too.

Ride & handling: Suspension is limited and adds little control but is generally clank-free

The Reflex’s low weight, relative to other budget options, is obvious in the way it picks up speed as well as when you get to any stiles or gates on the trail. It’s simply a lot less effort to propel forward than other similarly priced bikes which leaves a smile on your face for longer. Add something close to tangible traction from the Maiden tyres and it actually lets you go on the offensive on short climbs rather than just stalling straight away. 

The relatively stiff rear spring means it’s not a pogo stick either. There’s a definite loping gait if your pedalling rhythm syncs with the spring motion, but there’s not enough movement to really upset things. Critically the rear shock bounces off the stops at either end without sounding and feeling like someone’s just hit the bike with a sledgehammer. Whether it ever adds any control or comfort is a moot point, but at least it doesn’t make it worse than a hardtail, which is a rare credit in budget bouncer tests. 

The same is true of the front end too. Again the 50mm travel from the front fork feels more like squashing cheap bread than recognisable damping but the grease smears show you’re getting 50mm of movement to show your mates. Bottom out isn’t too brutal and it only tops out with a clang if you pop a wheelie or launch it off a (small) drop. There is a massive amount of twist in the fork thanks to the skinny legs and simple hoop brace. That means you’d probably be very wise to follow the ‘No stunting or jumping’ advice printed on the yellow warning sticker on the frame. Keep it on the ground though, and it will go vaguely where you point it most of the time. There’s not exactly much leverage coming from the narrow (600mm) bars anyway, so steering is best treated as a suggestion rather than  a detailed demand.

Frame: Small frame sizing needs careful checking

The alloy frame certainly looks the real deal, with shaping of both ends of the top tube giving a contemporary hydroformed look. The down tube is curved at the top and changes shape to a flat rectangle at the bottom bracket for decent stiffness at the pedalling centre. The main pivot is built into the rear of the bottom bracket block too, with a wide stance giving a reasonably stiff back end once we’d done the slightly loose rear pivot bolts up. 

The fact it has rear pivots – and a swing link at the back of the shock – is a big step up for the £200 price category though, as most bikes under £500 are just simple swingarm designs of one sort or the other. It doesn’t make a massive difference in actual suspension terms, because the rear pivots are on the seat stays not the chainstays so they don’t alter the axle path, but it certainly makes the Reflex look pukka. The lazy wound coil of the rear shock also works in a constipated but clunk-free manner. 

The frame has the mounts and cable guides ready to take a rear disc brake and there’s adequate mud room if you fit bigger tyres too.  Make sure you check sizing before you buy though – our 18in frame was tiny, with a short seatpost, which meant that we couldn’t get near proper pedalling height.

Equipment: Shimano gears are reasonably smooth

Muddy Fox have managed to put some decent gears on the Reflex. Acera and Tourney might be right at the bottom of the Shimano range, but at least they’re Shimano, and rear shifts from the Revo shift twist shifters are surprisingly light and crisp. The front chainset isn’t so slick though and you’ll really have to back off the pressure to swap rings so plan ahead on climbs. 

The V-brakes are metal at the lever and the wheel end which means a positive bite and adequate control as long as the rims are dry. While Maiden isn’t a tyre brand we’ve used before, the tread pattern on them popped its cherry about 20 years ago as the Tioga Pyscho. Even in a cheap plasticky compound, it still grips better than the tyres typically fitted on similar bikes, although we still needed to take care when riding them over wet roots or rocks. 

The alloy bar, stem and seatpost with a proper clamp, holding a proper shaped saddle rather than a sofa on a stick are a big bonus too. Not just from a cosmetic and reduced-rattle comfort aspect, but also because they help to keep the Reflex's weight down.