How to Clean a Mountain Bike

With a job description that includes rolling countless miles through mud and dirt, it's no surprise that your mountain bike isn't the cleanest thing in your house, or even your garage.

But maybe it should be.
A mountain bike doesn't need to sparkle in the sunlight (it's just going to get dirty the next time the sun is out anyway), but a regular cleaning routine can prevent problems down the road. Plus, a clean bike will last longer and improve performance.

Prepare For a Dirty Job
Cleaning your bike is a messy job! Don't even think about wearing your favorite shirt—or any shirt you don't want covered in grime. Putting on a shop apron and rubber gloves isn't a bad idea, either. Oh, and if you thought you could do this inside four walls, you thought wrong. Unless you're in an area where black grease won't look out of place.

Collect Cleaning Supplies
Before you get to scrubbing, make sure you have the appropriate supplies. Park Tool recommends the following materials:

• Bicycle cleaning brush
• Repair stand
• Chain scrubber
• Degreasing solvent
• Chain lubricant
• Rags and sponges
• Two buckets
• Biodegradable dishwashing liquid
• Water hose

Both buckets should be filled with hot water as warmer temperatures will clean the bike better. Dishwashing liquid should be mixed into one of these buckets. As you clean your bike more often, you'll be able to decide which items you can't live without.

Scrub, Scrub, Scrub
Clumps of mud, leaves, sand and other grime should be wiped clean from your bike after every ride. Why? It can destroy drivetrains, brakepads and shifting. Plus it's heavy, and if you're like me, you need to shed every possible pound before shreddin' the trail.
After obvious souvenirs from the trail are removed from your bike, place the bike in a repair stand (if you have one), wipe the whole rig down with soapy water and apply degreaser to the drivetrain. Removing the wheels will allow you to clean areas that are typically unseen. Brushes, rags and sponges should be used to get rid of mud and other grit. Just remember to gently scrub your bike down. You don't want to damage your paint job!

Don't neglect your chain and rear cassette. You can either manually clean the chain by gently scrubbing with a brush (a toothbrush works well for this) and water right where it meets the rear cassette, or use an on-the-bike cleaning machine, which clips over the lower part of the chain and bathes the chain in solvent. Backpedal the chain through a rag drenched in degreaser once it's scrubbed clean.

Wash all other areas of the bike down with a biodegradable soapy water mix. Then rinse it down with a hose. Note: high pressure water hoses are NOT safe to spray your bike with. Use a garden hose on a gentle setting and don't spray water into the bearings.

Lube & Grease
Once your bike is dry, your chain, cables, levers, shifters, derailleur pulleys, pivot points and brake bosses need to be lubricated. So as not to invite more dirt for a ride, wipe off any excess lube after application.
I like to give my bike a little grease at this point too. Typically, my attention turns to the pedals and seat post. I remove both my pedals and seat post, then apply the grease where metal makes contact with metal (in the case of the pedals, grease is applied to the threads that screw into the crank arms).

Tip: Don't have a repair stand? Don't worry! Just lay your bike against a wall, hang the seat over a thick tree branch to suspend it in the air or use a bike rack.

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Ride in Control

There are several ways to improve ATV safety. Some, like me, this helmet is the most important step you can do. However, the second most important step is to remember always out of control.

Riding in the company not only helps avoid accidents, prevent certain other ways too. Once out of hand, you lose the ability to adapt to and about the environment. This can and should lead to serious accidents and injuries to themselves and others.

Cycling is dangerous and we do all boundaries sometimes, but it is a fine between the limits of safe driving recklessly.

Follow these guidelines to ensure road safety and the legal threat.

Accelerate
Always wear a helmet and other protective clothing for the driving conditions.

Never to ride on the range.
Is not ashamed to feel the track points lead is not safe enough to travel and you can not tell anyone otherwise.

Use the right equipment for the field.
Some bikes are better in different situations. Just because you can see tire tracks, does not mean that you go by bike.

Keep your speed under control.
Keep your speed at a level that adapt to the unforeseen obstacles or changes in track conditions.

For more information about the song.
Do not push the limits of an unknown street. You know the way to drive at low speed before it routes that can be used to run.

Slow blind spots.
You never know who or what is behind, where not to see you about them.

So look and stop.
There was no trace lines, which seems to be a challenge before the installation.

Map of the event. Always look for the consequences of failure is a part, or something, before you try to find out. Sometimes it may seem easy to install components, but can be deadly accident.

Start Small, Go Big.
Work, such as obstacles and tricks. Find ways, moving in difficult situations and less dangerous, or at low speeds practice before it becomes a little dangerous.

Play Smart.
If you believe what you are doing is not the most intelligent, but the right one. Think about what you and trust your instincts .

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[Mountain Bike]: Bar End key equipment should not be overlooked

Bar End key equipment should not be overlooked

Bar End devices that many people may overlook, but many might see as important. Is a device mounted on the tip of the hand. Sometimes be viewed as an option to add beauty to your car is good, some cars do not put put some cars then why not put people to wear what would be helpful. I would say that of course useful. If known to be used because the mountain bike. Use hands to press the weight straight to hand over a raised hand. And a position in the hand is only a single location. When we are cycling a long distance (some spin to have symptoms long ago) to the fatigue at the back or tea at hand if we do not change. What hand position. Putting bar end is held in the hand placements to increase hold hands. We can change the posture of the body and hold hands.

                Bar end will benefit both in the flat and steep. A position to grasp the difference. On the other hand holding the flat of the hand line will be aligned with a hands-on. Stretch arm will squat down under the body does not make a lot less. Hold the end of the bar along the palm of the hand set to allow arms to the side. Fried body to fall forward into more flexible than the shoulder movement. Arms, chest compression does not allow more spontaneous respiration with When we stand on the rock, whether horizontal or the slope to catch the bar end will help us Have more pressure because we are lifted higher than the hands and also to handle the. More established. It seemed to capture different. Weight will be taken to the front to reduce friction on the rear wheel spinning ride. Up the slope to catch the bar end will help bring forward new weight by pulling the bar end.

                Choice in terms of size, length and shape depend on surface and fit preferences of each individual. For large hands to use bar-end is a small and research would not be caught right-handed people are not at hand, a small end of the bar is too large, it will not hold steady Should be chosen to fit the palm and grip. Bar-end brands will each have different shapes and sizes out. But at the same bar that is attached to the end of the hand. Both direct perpendicular to the hands. Direct oblique inward and then straight up to the end bent into a different length. The round shape is round. Shaped oval, square wave groove edges, smooth surfaces, it has some designs, depending on the design of each brand. Used to produce materials ranging from steel to aluminum, carbon fiber and rubber to last a lot more soft. For aluminum, there are many colors to choose from. There is also a lightweight carbon fiber does not escape.

                For those who do not have installed bar-end from the beginning. Be viewed as the width of your hand is how much If the old hands who are not cut it, it no problem. Hands are usually wider than shoulder already. If it is hand cut and then to see whether or not long enough. Bar End to eat because of the hand area of ​​approximately 2-3 cm distal to the need to move hand gear Hand brake and the hand into the inner sleeve. Since the middle of a hands-all hands are puffed out, and then gradually reduced by only a hand Over Size is puffed out a lot of hands sliding gear Hand brake and the hand into the sleeve, so there is a limit. So, before you find a bar to try to put end to be able to move hand viewed gear Hand brake and the hand into the sleeve much if you cut their hands using a wide Shoulder was then fixed to recommend changing hands, or hands-off sleeve only. Choosing a cut only if the sleeve length Hand over hand, but must not interfere with. Capture the hand position normally. The hand position can not be narrower than shoulder feared. Because they do not feel right to hold hands and breathing is difficult. In addition, owing to the front of the vehicle difficult to control sensitivity.

                Bar End Installation is easy. Can be done manually. Hand gear only version. Hand brake and the hand into the inner sleeve. Wear bar-end with the hand to the outside edge of the bar end is just the tip of the hand. The bar end at an angle to the ground about 10-45 degrees, depending on preference. The fit and objectives of each individual to be focused on what. To focus on the flat was set to end to the front (at an angle less) If you focus on the uphill slope it end came to the (angle), while not set too because it will cause weight not taken forward. Another important need is not so tight. When we pull or rock may stand to swipe that is sure to hurt. But be careful tightening too specific. It may be the end of the bar legs broken or be broken hand. Most bars will be deducted before the end. Out to be useful and still make it look beautiful too ..

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Make Maintenance Convenient and Easy

Mountain Bike Tips

 Make Maintenance Convenient and Easy

Wet. That's what a lot of my riding seems to be lately. Winter's last gasp (hopefully) means the tail end of melting snow and but now we're moving into early spring rain. And that translates into lots of crapola on the bike, from salt spray to road grime to just plain old water thrown up by my tires.

You're probably smarter than me and do this sort of thing already, but I've been congratulating myself on the set-up I've created as a result of all this filth on my bike that I carry home every day. What I did was put a plastic milk crate right where I park my bike, and filled it with cleaning supplies. Here's what's in it:

• Rags
• Small bottle of oil
• An old toothbrush
• Tire pump
• Air pressure gauge

That stuff is there and handy for me because right after each ride I take (literally) just a minute or two and carefully wipe down the bike. I do both the frame and the wheels, and then lubricate the chain and other moving parts as needed. The brush is for getting out any tough gunk, and I use the tire pump and gauge to check air pressure before I ride the next time. The key is having your supplies handy, so it's easy to do. I know if I have to go off hunting for stuff, it's probably not going to happen.

Not only does little quick bit of easy maintenance help prolong the life of your bike and its components, but there is something great about riding a clean bike. You tend to feel better about it and take even better care of it.

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How to Ride Over a Log

Mountain bike

How to Ride Over a Log

It’s common to come across fallen trees and other obstacles while mountain biking. Instead of riding around a log the next time you’re out on the trail, try to ride over it! First, look for the smallest part of the log to cross. Many times you’ll come across a log that has a cutout, as shown here. If this is the case, aim your front tire directly at the opening.

 The Approach

As you approach the log, slow your speed. Stand up slightly over your saddle with your knees flexed. Time your pedal stroke so that your dominant foot is forward as you may need to continue pedaling to propel yourself over the obstacle. Your weight should be shifted onto the balls of your feet, and the log should be perpendicular to the frame of your bike. Hitting the log at an angle will cause your tire to skid sideways across the log.

Up and Over

Just before you come into contact with the log, compress your body by bending your arms and pushing down towards your handlebars. Almost instantly, push your body upright and pull up on your handlebars. The rebound from your front shock and tire will help you lift the weight of your bike onto the log. Make sure your feet are flat as you begin to go up and over the log.

 Over and Out

Once your front tire is over the log, shift your weight towards the front of your bike. If you are secured to your pedals with cleats or toe cages, pull your feet up slightly as you pedal. This will lift your rear tire up and over the log. If you are riding with flat pedals, simply continue your pedal stroke to propel your rear tire over the obstacle.

Master It:

• Keep your feet flat and pedals level just before you reach the log.
• Bend your knees to keep your balance and remain agile.
• Don't hit your brakes! It's easier to continue over an obstacle than to stop midway and find footing from a precarious position.
• Keep your momentum. Lean forward once your wheel touches down on the other side of the log to avoid falling over.

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Making Bike Commuting Work for You.

Making Bike Commuting Work for You

Save your money and your condition. Cycling to work is the key. In fact, anyone can do it, "said Steve Cook, director of sending and receiving of Superga Chandler bike shop. It would be really good condition. Be realistic about the bike 30 miles, but if someone can take a leisurely stroll through the 10 walk miles at a steady pace, you can safely bike to work.

Cooke. That many u201CA%, bus and bicycle to withdraw the people some of the coaches and the rest of the bike u201D%

Jones said he hoped that people try to see how easy and fun to drive as possible.

John Cherry, and key sales staff at Flagstaff Absolute% u2019s Circle, said that one of the first things to consider is the length of the route. A short drive through the city, a few couples, backpacks, known manner, the media or by bicycle. For longer trips by bike, you have to make the right tire, tips, Cherry points close to a car or a set of knobbies for off-road shortcuts.

Before installing
He added that the equipment is in good condition, it is necessary for a safe and fun. Take the Long View on the bike. If you do not regularly traveled, the tires are flat. Chain can be oxidized. Fat is stucco. Repaired or leave it and let the local motorcycle professionals, it worked.

% U201CAs bike is in good condition, you can use% u201D says Cooke. % U201CWe necessary safety equipment too, such as clothing for the weather, maybe a helmet and a jacket. % U201D

Suitable equipment includes a helmet of the U-shaped block of the circulating water bottle holder or a unit, a light jacket, rain jacket / something that matters and bring a flashlight approved. When a heavy bike commuter, Cherry also recommended:

* BOB Trailer - Ideal for materials, books in the library, and leads to the laundry. There are models in March, the double suspension.
* Laptop - Jandd makes the case that the pool, an underwater housing hooks.
* Mail Bag - Use to try one of pockets Timbuktu u2019s% color, strong backpack and bicycle, on the cover and the style of the company land.
* Good light bike - not only the right, in some cities feel good light bike or in your head.
* Cycling gloves for hot, warm socks and a wool knit bike.
* Buffer - the rain and mud to prevent fly back.
* Winter tires - argue that if they travel on snow and ice.

Passengers with bikes that offer some tips to facilitate travel contract. If there is no shower at work, babywipes own. Pack zip and odors. Also, your work clothes for long trips, sweating and changes in the office. Choose your clothes wrinkle-free and have enough time to crush a competitor without fear of serious worker.

Cherry also offers a windbreaker or rain, work clothes for short distances. Up to $ 20 jersey plastic surgeon runners and some garbage bags of clothes. Remove to go simple and clean as u2019re% and ready. keeping leg guard channels or the means or the offense may be placed in the extra space.

If you do not your pet on the site, make sure that the heavy packages. Buy a super-block and went to work. According to Cherry, a U-lock is better than cable. We recommend that you remove the front wheel and throw it through the lock and the frame is a strong bike or a pole or tree.

If you need a car, the bike trade in September, offered Cherry moved to% u201CSince to Flagstaff a few years ago I spent 210 zł 170 zł. U2019m%'m in better shape than me 18-35 years. Counter-movement. % U201D.

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Learn to Love These Pain Free
Bicycle Maintenance Intervals

Unlike in your four-wheeler, there ain’t no fancy dashboard light to indicate that your bike needs service. What’s more, there are no hard-and-fast rules, either. Bicycle maintenance intervals depend on how much you ride, the conditions in which you ride (dry, wet, dusty, sandy, paved, unpaved, etc.), how hard you ride, and probably several other factors that haven’t been discovered.
So, for the sake of setting some kind of parameters, lets assume you ride on the order of six to eight hours a week in generally dry conditions and that your cycling talent falls midway between Lance Armstrong and Leonardo DiCaprio (or Karen Kurreck and Katie Couric, if you prefer). If you consider yourself above these median values or find yourself riding in sandy/dusty/muddy/rainy conditions, do the following more often. You Leonardos and Katies can let a little more time slip between tech sessions (except for tire inflation, cleaning water bottles/reservoirs, and changing batteries).
WEEKLYISH
Road Bikes

• Air up tires (even the best seep a few psi per week)
• Lube chain
• Check tires for casing cuts, excessive wear, embedded objects
• Scrub water bottles and/or hydration system reservoir/tube

Mountain Bikes

• Air up tires
• Wash bike
• Lube cables
• Lube chain
• Lube pedals
• Lube fork dampers (the place where inner legs insert in outer legs of telescoping forks) or pivots (link-type forks)
• Inspect brake pads for glazing or wear
• Check tires for casing cuts or deformities (big bulges)
• Scrub water bottles and/or hydration system reservoir/tube

MONTHLYISH
Road Bikes

• Wash bike
• Lube cables
• Lube pedals

Mountain Bikes

• Check headset adjustment
• Inspect tire treads for wear
• Check fork pivots (link-type forks) for excessive sideways play
• Check chain for wear
• Evaluate shoe cleat condition

AT LEAST TWICE A YEAR
Road Bikes

• Reglue tubular tires (unless you don’t know what this means)
• Remove and grease handlebar stem (quill type)
• Lube seatpost (grease for alloy posts into metal frames; anti-seize for Ti posts into Ti frames; nuttin’ for carbon posts)
• Check chain for wear
• Evaluate shoe cleat condition

Mountain Bikes

• Check all bearings for dirt/wear/adjustment
• Touch up paint (steel frames especially)
• Lube seatpost. (see above)
• Check chainrings for wear
• Inspect rear derailleur pivots and pulleys for wear
• Reglue grips

ANNUALLY
Road Bikes

• Check all bearings for dirt/wear/adjustment
• Retape handlebar
• Remove and grease handlebar stem (quill type)
• Lube metal seatpost
• Touch up paint (steel frames especially)
• Inspect brake pads
• Check chainrings for wear
• Replace cyclometer/heart rate monitor battery
• Replace all cables and housing
• Inspect rear derailleur pivots and pulleys for wear

Mountain Bikes

• Overhaul fork
• Replace all cables and housing
• Replace cyclometer/heart rate monitor battery

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Alma guide you compulsively wash your bike.

Alma guide you compulsively wash your bike.

It is said that a clean machine does not do the job better. This logic does not apply for a bicycle.
Transfer does not behind labels and cases, as it is to hide, but are open to fluctuations in the environment and roads. must be clean and lubricated for life and long u2014% efficiency of the bicycle is a clean fast bike.

Bicycle chains
Start in the most moving of the chain. You do not have the luxury-brand detergent, parks or developments. Studies, but the chain are not in use to clean properly.

There is only one disadvantage of this solution, when the chain Shimano or Campagnolo, by chain Wippermann Sachs or replaced easier. These chains are easily removable master link, to remove the entire chain easily without too much difficulty allowed. In addition, these channels no expensive equipment to replace the chain of transmission.

Stainless Steel Chain Wippermann particularly pleased that the metal is corrosion resistant. This function has no objection to cleaning and lubrication. Ask your local bike shop for proper installation of the new channel. If the channel, and the fields are large enough, we need to replace the team.

When removing the bicycle chain, the chain in a bathtub full of butter and oil placed in self-cleaning. If the chain is extremely dirty, use a degreaser (like Simple Green) and a toothbrush, brush the dirt and the remains buried.

well after washing and drying, start enjoying a chain of self-cleaning lubricant. I want to shake up the string on a dry pan with butter, with a cloth. Clean it several times.

To do so dirty after every ride on the wet /, that the power to clean and is well lubricated. In addition, the leakage of grease prevented at the top. Clean the pan with butter later.

(To wash more information, check out this article Slowtwitch).

Cassettes
Drizzle with oil, brush teeth, clean thoroughly. Make sure all corners. I do not be diluted carrier tape and spray directly onto the can with bearings and grease. What degreaser soak for a minute or two. Thoroughly and be sure to not use too much water pressure.

Wheels
Clean the sponge wheel simply wash water and soap. Sponge, cleaning tires, rims and spokes and hubs. Let the cleaner bearing seal. Thoroughly proposed, with the same cleaning procedures in a box.  

So you need to clean up the dirt bike anywhere else that is cool and lubricated. If the front brake back up does not remove the front brake and clean surface of the fork is to operate the front brake.

Your cup of detergent and water to clean the bike down. This includes the volume bar as well. I'm not fat components on the bike at the end when you get the fat saddle and bar tape. Go to set the bearings and bottom bracket. In the phone is locked, you can clean the cups, so to avoid the hole and immediately with a clean cloth.

Rinse the bike at low pressure. Avoid using water bearing, but rinse glasses, when the foam region. Flush with the top down.

Dry the frame and components, with an old towel.

Retouch
After drying the motorcycle down on the structure of each chip color. There is also a good time for a more binding sites for cracks. Do not clean the bike hide the cracks in the structure.

If you see an image, there are two ways to exit.

If the chip is only gray: After cleaning, lint-free cloth and alcohol were shaken (the owner) with a paint (by the artist, manufacturer of bicycle parts cache, nail polish, or automatic), moderately thin layers. One of the three layers, what is needed. If necessary, use a clear coat, too.

If the chip on bare metal or other material if you rust, sand, visible in the chip to the shiny metal. Maybe the feathers around the painting, but the chip cycles are usually small. Clean the surface with alcohol first. With the primer mix is usually a floor. It dries quickly. Spread 1.3 layers of paint to touch, let it dry and colorless, if necessary.

Carbon fiber with a clear top-grain sand (400-600) sandpaper surface layer of feathers, which are coated clear and without problems. Clean the repair with alcohol or acetone. Then mix a small amount of transparent epoxy resin families in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Spread the mixture in the resin, which has just begun, and an old jacket with a pen, of course. It helps, but not quite, although the outside and to protect against UV rays.

Drain (overnight), or to be made keeping in other phases of the assembly of bicycles. I would just recommend sanding the cured epoxy (at least three days), the bravest and experienced fully.

Lubrication
Wet and dry lubricating oil filler-axle brakes to imagine, gears, levers, etc.  Cover the air intake of the horse, and just be sure to cover the excess of his holes clean. This framework should be kept clean if you clean up immediately.

Make lubricate all exposed wiring, even though they are stainless steel. This is to ensure that the cables are clean and rust free.

Rehabilitation
Install bicycle chain after cleaning. Remember, excess oil or grease from any surface that is kept clean.
If you change the sprocket drive, you need the threads of the screws in the chain. It is necessary to bolt from aluminum and steel at a time. Thin film of grease the screws, as mentioned above dealing with them do not have the aluminum chain wheel lock, but not a necessity.

A person who has transferred the bolts should be lubricated before installation. Wipe off excess fat from the surface after tightening.

Replace the wheel and admire his work .

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How to Buy a Used Mountain Bike

Mountain Bike

How to Buy a Used Mountain Bike 

1. Assemble a list of used mountain bikes from specialty outlets like local bike shops and websites like BikeBuying.com. Then, add bikes that you find on generic sales outlets such as Craigslist so you end up with a list of 10 to 15 bikes that fit your budget and size.
2. Make a list of questions to ask each bike seller. Ask how many miles are on the bike, what replacement parts have been added, if the bike has ever been damaged, what surfaces the bike was ridden on and why the seller is parting with the bike.
3. Make a list of critical parts to check, including the crankshaft, wheels, gear lines, brakes, frame and wheel cassette.
4. Ride the bike before purchasing. Take the bike on different surfaces and listen for noises. Change the gears and test the brakes under strenuous conditions.
5. Request an informal contract with the seller that includes statements of known problems and assurances of a certain level of quality. A contract like this will help your standing if you have a major problem with the bike and want to seek compensation in a small claims court.

 

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Tips For Hill Climbing on a Mountain Bike [Mountain Bike Tips]

Tips For Hill Climbing on a Mountain Bike[Mountain Bike Tips]
           Mountain bike riding is a popular pastime and sport for many Americans. According to the National Bicycle Dealers Association, 28.5 percent of the bicycles sold by specialty bicycle shops in 2008 were mountain bikes. But it is a good bet that few of these riders consider actual mountain bike climbing to be their favorite part of the sport.
          Climbing hills, particularly steep hills, is an activity that most riders approach with dread. They know from hard, painful, sometimes humiliating experience that mountain bike climbing leads to the agony of defeat much more often than it leads to the thrill of victory. With the right strategy, however, hill climbing can be done efficiently, without causing undue hardship to the bike or to the body.
Three Ingredients of a Successful Bike Climb [Mountain Bike Tips]
          Biking enthusiast Ken Kifer says that there are three ingredients of successful mountain bike climbing:
1. Physical strength of the rider
2. Proper gear selection for the climb
3. Hill climbing strategy employed
          Assuming that most people who participate in such a rugged sport as mountain biking are physically fit, the first ingredient should not pose too great an issue. If it is a problem, some rough and tumble rides up and down various hills for a few weeks should eliminate this obstacle.
Items 2 and 3, however, are not quite so easy to master. However, before these aspects are even attempted, one must choose the correct type of bike
Choosing the Correct Type of Bike
          There's a vast difference between a road bike and a mountain bike and not knowing this difference-and perhaps making the wrong choice-can make mountain bike climbing nearly impossible.
In general, one can tell the difference between a road bike and a mountain bike by considering two factors-the framing and tires of the bikes.
Framing.
           Because road bikes are built for speed, they typically have lighter frames than do mountain bikes. By contrast, the heavier frames of mountain bikes house suspension systems that are built to withstand the frame-jarring shocks of rough terrains.
Tires.
          Road bikes have thinner, smoother tires. The tires of mountain bikes, however, are broad with a significant amount of traction to handle rough terrains.
The Final Ingredients
          The final two ingredients-proper gear selection and hill climbing strategy-are indispensible parts of each other. Both are essential ingredients of successful mountain bike climbing. Both involve strategy. And the uses of both are dependent on the different types of hills.
Mountain Bike Climbing Up Different Types of Hills [Mountain Bike Tips]
          Most hills or mountains fall into three categories. Each category brings its own unique set of challenges. But each different type of hill can be conquered-with the proper strategy.
1.The concave hill is steepest as the top. Such a hill appears to get taller as the rider approaches.
2. A convex hill is steepest at the bottom. This type of a hill appears to get shorter as the rider approaches.
3. An even grade hill has a sloped, even rise.
          To make mountain bike climbing even more challenging, some hills can be a combination of all three types and some can be part of a series of hills. Some can even be mountains. The strategies for climbing the different types of hills must be considered in relation to whether one is climbing an isolated hill, a series of hills, or a mountain, as the strategy is different for each.
This article will address the strategy for mountain bike climbing up an isolated hill.
Climbing an Isolated Hill
          An isolated hill is one that "stands alone" without any surrounding hills. The strategy employed in climbing same will depend upon whether the hill is convex or concave.
Convex Hills.
          Climbing any hill takes power and speed, two components that must gradually be increased upon approaching a hill. For a convex hill (one that is steeper at the bottom), the timing and the speed of the ascent must be nearly perfect. As odd as it may sound, the way to accelerate up a convex hill is to shift down. This provides more power for the climb. But timing is everything when using this method. Downshift too soon, and exhaustion will plague the rider even before reaching the hill. Downshift too late, and climbing the hill can be too labor intensive.
Concave Hills.
          Concave hills are steeper at the apex and, as such, require a different strategy than do convex hills. Two key factors to this strategy are keeping the speed steady, thus conserving energy, at the start the climb. As the hill becomes steeper, the downshifting should begin.
           Another strategy to mountain bike climbing of a concave hill is to stand up on the pedals, which creates a more powerful cycle. When standing, make sure the full body is evenly distributed on both pedals. This will create sufficient power to overcome the hill.
A Few Tips for General Technique
           One's pedaling technique is also an important factor in successful mountain bike climbing. The right placement of the feet can have a huge impact on the amount of effort expended while climbing the hill. The feet should be positioned properly and the heel should be kept parallel to the ground. (If the toes are pointed down, the muscular contractions of the leg are minimized which will affect the speed and the stamina of the rider.)
Another point to consider is the cadence of the ride. (Cadence is the number of times that the pedal is rotated, on either side, per minute of cycling.) Aiming for a steady cadence is a healthy goal, whether the surface is flat or is on a hill. Cycling at a cadence of 85 to 105 is an optimum level.
When mountain bike climbing, one's power to climb the hill will be increased at a higher cadence while downshifting to a lower gear. The effort on the pedal, however, should remain the same on both the upstroke and the down stroke. Maintaining the same amount of pressure throughout the whole pedaling cycle will create a more even stroke, which can help to maintain the energy level needed to climb the hill.
The View from the Top
          Mountain bike climbing is not for the faint of heart. It takes strength, stamina, and good technique. But with these tips, you should be able to see the view from the top of the hill (or mountain) sooner than your friends!

[Mountain Bike Tips] Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Cara_Zolinsky

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Mountain Bike Forks - The Upgrade For Your Bike

      You think you need a new bike? But you don't want to kick your old one because you like to ride it? It is quite comfortable, the shifting system is super and the tires aren't that bad at all? You know what? There is a very cheap but useful upgrade for your bike. No matter what type of bike, no matter how old it is, no matter how much money you'd like to spend. Just get a new fork. It will give your bike a new look and a better suspension.

     There are some different types of forks. Rigid forks, light suspension forks, some for downhill or cross country, and so on... But which fork will be the one you need? This depends on your riding style.

Here are some useful information about your possibly new fork.

          For a normal street bike just to ride sometimes the best solution will be a light suspension mountain bike fork. These MTB forks have low travel because they should only absorb the small damage to the road surface. You can choose the look of the suspension you'd like without spending too much money on it.

          You can also go for a rigid fork but they won't be too good for a normal bike. You should have a special racing cycle to go for a rigid one.
          If you would like to ride off the road you should think about a special suspension fork. Here you can choose again between some different types of MTB forks.
          First one will be the Downhill fork. They have a very long travel up to 300mm and are double or triple crown. These suspension forks will weigh very much.

        The second special fork is the Cross Country fork. These forks are kind of the "light suspension fork" 2.0 because they look quite the same but there is a big difference. The price. There MTB forks are the most expensive forks because they are very very low in weight.

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Road Or Mountain Bike Helmet - Which One Do You Choose?

       Whether you are riding a road bike or a mountain bike, you certainly need to wear a helmet for safety purposes. A good helmet can protect your head from the sun and from any accidents.

         It used to be the case that for some road races that finish up in a mountain, racers can ride without having to wear helmets. But even that rule has been scraped now. For safety purposes, all racing events (road and mountain bikes alike) must take place with helmets on - no exceptions. If a rider is found without a helmet, he or she will be disqualified.






        But what about if you are not riding in race? Do you still need to wear a helmet? Common sense tells us that the helmet can help protect our head in the event of an accident. Still, many riders take this issue lightly and fail to put on helmets while riding.

        On a road bike, the bicycle is traveling at a higher speed. During downhill descents, speed reach up to 100 kph. That's as fast as a motor vehicle! A crash can cause serious injuries or in the worst case scenario, may even be fatal. There are so many riders blogging about their crashes, and many were just glad that they had their helmets on when they crashed. They kept their broken helmets as souvenirs. Now they can show off their "scars" to their friends.
        You may shocked when you see those pictures of the helmets because in most cases, the back of the helmet cracked. That means if you are not wearing a helmet, your head is going to absorb the full force of the impact. And any strong impact to the back of the head can only spell disaster. So don't take this lightly, wear your helmet when you ride.

        If you don't have one, how do you choose a good helmet? Most helmets have been tested in labs to be able to cushion a strong impact during an accident. However, better quality helmets offer more comfort and reduce drag.
        If you ride a road bike, stick to a road bike helmet. Road helmets are built more aerodynamically to reduce wind resistance. The frontal area of the helmet is more pointed so that wind travels smoothly to the back of the head. Besides, you will look better in a road helmet.
       But if you already own a mountain bike helmet, you may just want to use the same helmet, especially if you are into leisure riding. Unless, of course, your mountain bike helmet is a full face helmet. Then you need to get something else. You certainly don't want to wear a full face helmet while riding a road bike. A full face helmet can prevent injuries to the face when you are riding in rough terrain on a mountain bike.

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